tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12367079671963430442024-03-14T04:28:19.826+00:00My Modelling and Painting BlogDrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.comBlogger150125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-85047712322338112852019-04-28T12:42:00.002+01:002019-04-28T12:42:22.467+01:00Wild West Theme<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So, I've finally finished painting my Black Scorpion Cowgirls. These were purchased with the idea of playing with them using Dracula's America as a ruleset, with a side order of Dead Man's Hand. Since then, I've moved on to playing much more DMH than DA. Mostly I've used my Maleficent Seven for this, but I've finally got these guys finished, with the intention of using them as a cowboy gang.<br />
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As is probably obvious, the one on the left is painted differently. She was painted some time ago, and the rest are new. I have, in photographing them, noticed that I've missed the necklace on at least one of them. That needs to be corrected.<br />
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In terms of the models, it's worth saying that the Black Scorpion sculpts are absolutely beautiful, with the exception of their faces, which I found to be a little poorly detailed and lacking in clarity. I've done the best I can with them, but I'm not going to pretend that I think that they are the best faces ever.<br />
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I've got some photos of the individual models, some of which are better than others, but it gives some idea of the models themselves.<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-78664407238023120322019-04-23T06:51:00.000+01:002019-04-23T06:51:57.874+01:00Analogue Hobbies Painting Challenge Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So, it's time to review my participation in the Analogue Hobbies Painting Challenge this year. I tried to get in on this last year, but was too late, and so I was keen to get in on it this year.<br />
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Each participant is tasked with setting themselves a target number of points. I set myself a target of 1000 points, which is the equivalent of 200 28mm models painted in the three months of the challenge. I am pleased to say that I achieved 1252 points, beating my target and putting me 22nd of 85 participants. To put that in perspective, the winner achieved 6268 points!<br />
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<a href="https://thepaintingchallenge.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">A link to the Challenge website</a><br />
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I've been through my posts for the challenge, and attempted to pull out some of my favourite models. I've also tried to work out exactly what it was that I painted, for a final tally for myself. These are from the posts that are easy to find. I think there were a few more bits that I sneaked in, but this will do to give me some idea of what I did.<br />
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95 15mm Roman Infantry<br />
6 15mm Roman Cavalry<br />
3 15mm Bolt Throwers<br />
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6 28mm Vanguard Northern Alliance<br />
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7 35mm Batman Figures<br />
4 35mm Batman Objective<br />
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1 28mm Building<br />
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136 28mm War of the Roses Infantry<br />
6 28mm War of the Roses Cavalry<br />
1 28mm War of the Roses Cannon<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Start of the Roman Army</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roman Cavalry</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roman Artillery</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vanguard Half Elves</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vanguard Huscarls</td></tr>
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-90253317922421970382019-04-21T22:58:00.003+01:002019-04-21T22:59:08.931+01:00Back in the GameSo, it has been a good long while since I posted on this blog (over a year in fact). Back then I talked about how I was building an army, and how that army was going to have a plan. Well, it is a year later, and that army still isn't finished, but it has made real progress towards it. I have also done a lot of gaming. A lot of painting (including the Analogue Hobbies Painting Challenge, more on that later). I've bought into some new games, given some up, and generally, made progress in all of the bits of the hobby that I love.<br />
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So this is a marker. A statement of my intention to return to blogging. So for now, I'm just going to make this a brief post, with just one picture. This morning, I completed my Butcher's Guild Ball team.<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-57587030900647919332018-03-18T14:28:00.000+00:002018-03-18T14:28:05.750+00:00Building an ArmySorry it's been so long since I last posted anything. It doesn't mean that I have been idle, simply that I have been too distracted and busy to post here.<div>
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Today, I am going to talk about the process of building a new army, and how it differs from some of the other types of Hobbying that we do, and maybe think about some of the mistakes that I have made in the past, and some that others make, and how I have tired to avoid them.</div>
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So, my first question is, what do I mean when I talk about building an army. Usually, when we talk about building an army in this hobby, we are talking about building a force for whatever game we are planning to play. That is not what I am talking about today. I play a lot of skirmish games, with about a dozen models a side. That, to me, is not an army. That is a force, or a crew, or a side. Even some of the more middle sized skirmish games, things with 60 or so models a side, i wouldn't really put in here. When I talk about building an army, I'm talking about games with 100's of models on the table. Things of the scale of the old WFB, or Black Powder. Games where we are talking about big forces on big tables fighting big battles. I firmly believe that these are different enough to the other games that they deserve to be talked about separately.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the sort of scale that would probably be as small as I would call an "Army" (With thanks to Adam and his 15mm ADLG 100 Years War armies)</td></tr>
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So, now we know what I mean by an Army, lets start talking about how I go about building one, and look at what I have done so far.</div>
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<b>What to build</b></div>
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Choose something that you are going to enjoy for a long time. Building an army is likely going to be a longish term project. You are looking at painting 100's of models for this, so you need to make sure that it is something that is going to hold your interest in the longer term. There is no point in picking something that you are not going to want to touch again in a fortnights time. That way lies wasted money and energy, and unfinished projects. It may be obvious, but it probably bears stating explicitly right at the beginning.</div>
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<i>(I have chosen to build a War of the Roses force. I like my medieval history, and it's a period that has interested me recently, with a number of books and TV dramas firing up my enthusiasm.)</i></div>
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Once you know what period you are going to play , you need to pick a scale. Sometimes this is easy, and sometimes it can be more difficult. Often, your choice will not just be based on what you want to play, but also on factors that you can't control. You may need to work around not just what you want to play, but also what models are available for your period, what the rules you want to use expect, and sometimes how much time you have.</div>
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This is also a time where it can sometimes help to follow the crowd. It's often worth finding out what other people are doing in the period you want to play. This is not a skirmish force, this is an army. Unless you have unlimited time, patience and resources, you may well not want to build multiple forces for this. When I am playing smaller games, I don't mind if I end up having to build both forces for the table. Its a small number of models. When I am building an army, well, that's a much bigger deal if I have to build 2 armies in order to get a game. If everyone else is playing in 6mm, it makes it much harder to get a game with you 54mm force, and you might want to think about whether you want to at least move a little closer to a common standard. You may decide to go it alone, but you should at least consider it.</div>
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(<i>In this case, I have chosen 28mm. The models are available, and are beautiful. The group I play with have all recently started 28mm Medieval armies from about the same period, and the main rulesets I play to use (Swordpoint and Dragon/Lion Rampant) are all written with 28mm in mind)</i></div>
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It's also worth thinking about basing at this point. Write a list of all of the games you may either now, or in the future, want to play with your army, or models from it. Then write down their basing requirements. Base your units on the base that will allow you to play the most systems, or failing that, base them individually, and have a plan for how you will group them for each game.</div>
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(<i>I have gone with a mix of 20mm square single basing, and 40mm 3/4 man bases. The 20mm ones can be grouped into 40mm bases for swordpoint. The 40mm ones let me put three models on them for open order bases. In either case, I have enough 20mm bases that I have enough single figures to build the force I plan to take for Lion/Dragon Rampant. If saga ever releases a medieval period book, then by 20mm bases will be legal for that as well)</i></div>
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<b>How Accurate is Accurate Enough</b></div>
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This is a question that mainly, but not exclusively, applies to Historical games. After painting a group of Knights, and showing them to my painting group, I got asked "Do you want me to critique these with my gaming hat, or my historical hat on" And I think that is a perfectly valid question. Only you know what level of historical (or fluff) accuracy works for you (and to a lesser extent your group). You should try to make sure that once you know where that line is, you stay on the correct side of it for you. Part of this is doing your research, and part of it is knowing what compromises you will and won't make.</div>
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Interestingly, this also applies to adding fantasy "bits" to your forces. For example, my Saga Vikings are going to have Werewolves as Beserkers, and my Napoleonic Skirmish force may well have a Jonathon Strange figure fighting with them (Counts as a Cannon!!!!)</div>
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(<i>I have decided that my force is going to be based around the forces that were at the 1st Battle of St. Albans. I will have models representing all of the commanders that were there, and try to represent the troop types as well. I am happy that I will probably have a different ratio of Billmen to Bowman than was represented at the battle, and I am also happy that I may include some units that strictly speaking weren't there. I will however try to avoid too many of these. I'm also aware that I may have some Blackadder themed models built for this.)</i></div>
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<b>Have a plan</b></div>
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This is something that I think really helps when building an army. Knowing what you want in your force can really help to make it a reality. Building an army is a big undertaking (I know, I keep saying it), and it is easy to get distracted from the point. There are loads of really lovely models out there, and it is natural to want to buy them, paint them, and make them yours. Unfortunately, that can often mean that you have an army that has lots of really fun things in it, but is lacking in the stuff that actually does the work, the core of the force. This means that you can end up doing lots of work, and still not having an army you can use.</div>
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It's also worth having some way of tracking your progress against the plan. I have a spreadsheet, that has my army list on it, and a little square for every model I need to paint for that list. When I finish a model, I change the colour of the square. It means that I can see at a glance exactly what is painted, and what I need to paint. It also stops me getting excitable, painting all 24 Men at Arms (exciting knight types), and then realising that I still have a HUNDRED. IDENTICAL. ARCHERS. TO. PAINT.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who knew, a Medieval English army needed more than a few Longbowmen</td></tr>
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(<i>I have a plan. The aim is to build a 1,250 point swordpoint force that I can pick models from to then use for Lion Rampant as well. I have written a 500 point list, and listed everything that I need for it. I've worked out how many of what figure I need, and bought appropriately. There is a spreadsheet, which tracks exactly what I need, how many of them are bought, built, painted etc. I can see my progress at a glance, and see easily what I need to buy next)</i></div>
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<b>Work Small and Lay Down a Marker</b></div>
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My current 500 point force which will be my first step has about 100 figures in it. If I built and readied 100 figures all at once, I would never get them finished. The mass of Grey plastic on the shelf would become overwhelming, and the sheer scale would intimidate me into never starting. I know, it's happened before.</div>
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Batch working gets stuff done. Doing all of the red on those HUNDRED. IDENTICAL. ARCHERS. all at once is the quickest way to get them painted. Don't be fooled, it IS quicker. Mind numbing, but quicker.</div>
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The way I have gotten around this is partial batching. I have almost built all of the archers. I put the arms on, and then I stopped. This means that most of the build is complete.</div>
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When I am ready to work on my next models, I pick 4 of them out, and I put their heads, and any other bits onto the part assembled models. Then I paint them (more on this in a moment), complete them, and then move onto the next 4 models. This way, I have managed to get some of the benefits of batch assembly, without having that awful line of assembled grey plastic models staring at me.</div>
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When it comes to deciding what to build, I am a firm believer in laying down a marker. Making a statement. In an old white dwarf, Nigel Stillman said that the first model you paint should be a leader or standard bearer. He's right. Generic infantryman Bob painted up standing there could be anyone. He could be a lone sellsword, or a man running away, part of a ragtag skirmish force. Anyone. But if I put a standard there, it is something else. A standard says "THIS is a unit. This is part of an ARMY". He may be alone, but as long as there is a standard, there is a unit. That's why I start with command figures and standards for all of my units, before I start adding the infantrymen.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See, my raised hand means I am either leading my troops, or, as my wife suggested, waving to my mum<br /></td></tr>
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(<i>I've been less good at this one. My Men at Arms have a command stand, but my archers and Billmen don't yet (but that's going to change very soon))</i></div>
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<b>Painting</b></div>
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Here is where I might need a soapbox when I am finished. Remember YOU ARE NOT PAINTING A MODEL YOU ARE PAINTING AN ARMY.</div>
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Look at that statement again. You are painting an army. Therefore, everything that you do with your brush should be aiming to make your ARMY look better.</div>
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I have the luck to know some painters who just make me want to hang up my brushes. People whose work I look at, and I just go wow. They are the best FIGURE painters I know. I can't hold a candle to them, and that's ok.</div>
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I will probably annoy them now, but very few of them have good looking ARMIES. There individual models are amazing, but they spend so long on figures, that they despair of ever having a unit finished, much less an army.</div>
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Now this is a blessing, and a curse. When they do finally finish an army, it will be a work of true art, that will blow anything I paint away. But currently, I shall hold onto my moral high ground.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5UTPbufMphISanuHoMRn5TUsyrwMabuk2vLSHXFDNcft8ZJuf7svwhrdu__qhiVoHdoL8O6dbA-fN_KzogEd8AWXsaEDA95RirGa8KbfeU5YjDSTOKK98bUkaERxM-NMVwWhIXWn62xL/s1600/DSC_0457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="1600" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5UTPbufMphISanuHoMRn5TUsyrwMabuk2vLSHXFDNcft8ZJuf7svwhrdu__qhiVoHdoL8O6dbA-fN_KzogEd8AWXsaEDA95RirGa8KbfeU5YjDSTOKK98bUkaERxM-NMVwWhIXWn62xL/s320/DSC_0457.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who you calling "Neat"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
These are some of my archers. Washes, drybrushes, and not much else in the way of detailing. Individually, they are, at best, neat. But when ranked up with their fellows, and looked at from gaming distances, they look good.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEDMqL2EN3BlH-UceNRMWBrrZt4RG1QlehnCL3j22MthqXFX0RU3Mk60UKe-eNOmYS8ZEBMHKD4D7qNS4FVw2dijZSIRqgB1mYYwFdG1ZCKB82jQ69Na9QynCX29pVCo-GPxeA9bu-JtB/s1600/DSC_0454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="730" data-original-width="1600" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEDMqL2EN3BlH-UceNRMWBrrZt4RG1QlehnCL3j22MthqXFX0RU3Mk60UKe-eNOmYS8ZEBMHKD4D7qNS4FVw2dijZSIRqgB1mYYwFdG1ZCKB82jQ69Na9QynCX29pVCo-GPxeA9bu-JtB/s640/DSC_0454.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Better than the sum of our parts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Character models can, and should, have more detail lavished on them. These are the models that people are going to pick up and look at closely. Archer 41 from that unit of 50, probably not so much.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>In Summary</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
In summary, building an ARMY is a different process from building a smaller skirmish force, and needs to be approached in a different way. But at the end of that process, you should end up with a unique and beautiful thing that can be used for lots of games for years to come.</div>
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DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-87213184037165600102017-09-12T21:53:00.001+01:002017-09-12T21:53:38.059+01:00A New Home for Saga (Part 2)So, in the second part of this tutorial/build guide, I finish building the thatched house for my Anglo-Saxons.<br />
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<b>Step 6</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
The next step was to add the thatch to the cottage. This was done using a fake fur, which was cut to the same size as the cereal card roof before it was attached.<br />
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<b>Step 7</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Once the fur was glued on and stuck, I then proceeded to add the planking to the front and back walls. At this stage, I realised that I had made a mistake, and that the door was going to be more difficult to produce than I needed to have made it. Nevertheless I pressed on<br />
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<b>Step 8</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Once the planking was on, the next step was to try and make the thatch look less like teddybear fur. This was done by painting it with watered down 50:50 PVA glue, working all of the strokes from the top to the bottom so the fur laid flat. Once this was dry, it was given a neaten up with a craft knife and scissors.<br />
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<br />
<b>Step 9</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
A door was added. A little more planning and this wouldn't have been as tricky as it was, but it's done now. If you plan ahead, you could skip this step.<br />
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<b>Step 10</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Painting the wood. This can be done in any way that you wish. I went for Rhinox Hide, washed with Nuln Oil and then drybrushed Tyrant Skull, but there are probably better ways of painting wood out there.<br />
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Step 11</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
The thatch was given a watered down coat of brown. At this stage it was then drybrushed with Terminatus Stone so that we got a good colour. It was also stuck to the base, which in this case was an old CD.<br />
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<b>Step 12</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Finally, the house was based to match the rest of my models and terrain for SAGA<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-23905569929330950782017-09-10T13:35:00.002+01:002017-09-10T13:35:52.600+01:00A new home for SAGA (pt 1)So, I have recently become rather excited by SAGA. I tried it out at the Oxford Outriders, when I went up there for family reasons and found myself at a loose end. A more friendly bunch of people you couldn't hope to find in a games club, and I was made very welcome playing SAGA.<br />
Obviously, being me, I then decided that nothing would do but that I had to own this rather fun game myself. A quick trip to <a href="http://entoyment.co.uk/">Entoyment </a>and I found myself with a copy of Crescent and Cross, and the start of a 4 point Milties Christi Warband. Which was fine, except that locally, almost everyone else plays Dark Ages. Cue a return trip, to acquire the appropriate supplement, and a force of Anglo-Saxons. These are approaching 6 points now, and I am working on the extra bits (Priests, banners) for them.<br />
And some terrain. I've been looking online for ideas for building Anglo-Saxon buildings, and found that they are mostly wood (Good, I can make wooden buildings), mostly thatched (I can make thatched buildings too, still good), and either sit low to the ground and are dug down or are single story. This should be achievable.<br />
<br />
So, I decided to try a step by step terrain walk through. It may be rubbish. It may never get finished, but let's give it a go.<br />
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<b>Step 1.</b><br />
Having sketched up some plans on graph paper, and then transferred them to foam core (and I am indebted to <a href="http://mitchwargaming.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/saxon-buildings.html">this blog</a> whose plans inspired me) I cut the shapes out with a knife. Nothing too exciting so far.<br />
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<b>Step 2</b><br />
Having cut out all of the shapes, I then proceeded to glue them up. Learning from cereal card roofs before, I put the third upright to support the middle of the roof in place. Simple PVA glue was used at this point.<br />
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<b>Step 3</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
The next step was to cut out the roof underside. This is about 15mm longer than the sides of the house, and has a little decorative bit added. It was size by directly measuring it against the building.<br />
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<b>Step 4</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Fake fur, the saviour of model thatchers everywhere, was cut out to the same size. At this stage, it was simply cut out and not stuck to the card (I find this easier, but you could as easily stick the fur to the card now.<br />
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<b>Step 5</b><br />
The card roof was then glued into place on the Building<br />
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Once this was dry, the fake fur was glued onto the card roof.<br />
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That's as far as I have made it so far. Next steps will be the planking, and tidying the fake fur.DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-77635366636044281732017-07-21T23:56:00.000+01:002017-07-21T23:56:01.060+01:00Back to the BeginningI'm not normally a nostalgic person. But, to make sense of this, a little history is in order.<br />
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25 or so years ago, I wanted to play warhammer 40k. I'd heard of it from other people, and I was already playing a LOT of dungeons and dragons. But I wanted to play 40k. On holiday in Derbyshire, we had gone to Nottingham for the day, and I had finally got the Rogue Trader rulebook. This was not long after the Compedium and Compilation had come out, but I knew nothing about them. I just knew that I had now got the 40K rules. I wanted to play Squats. With Melta Guns. Exclusively. I was 13 or 14, these things happened.<br />
When I got to school, I was soundly mocked for my goals. There were army lists, and none of them had a force of just Squats with guns. The rulebook sat on the shelf, and I was deflated.<br />
Eventually, a birthday came around (or some other reason to have some cash), and my long suffering father took me on the underground to Tottenham Court Road, where I got to buy some of these toy soldiers. Harlequins and Eldar Guardians as they were. These were duly brought home, and painted (very very badly. No survivng examples exist). Finally, someone lent me the Yellow book, and I saw the original Eldar Craftworld army list. I was hooked. I wanted these. These were what I was destined to play.... I never got that army. I did get the red book, and the harlequin army list, and 3000 points of Harlequins (the contents of the box I had) regularly got cheesed (creamed, but goes on for longer to steal Pratchett's joke) by 3000pts of craftworld Eldar, playing lengthwise along the table.<br />
I played these for several years, until, eventually, 2nd edition happened. The eldar were shelved, and an Ork army was made from the contents of 2 starter boxes and A LOT of imagination. These were awful too. 3rd edition saw me stop playing. Forever, or so I thought.<br />
Age has led to many other tabletop games, including lots of Fantasy Battle, and now some small amount of Age of Sigmar. I moved away from GW games. I had a few Eldar models that I had picked up, and even a couple of squads of Harlequins painted for old times sake.<br />
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Then I got a demo of 8th. It wasn't bad. In fact, it was fun, and seemed to have fixed a lot of the problems with 40K that had kept me away. A bright idea goes off in the head, and I wonder if I could make a very small Harlequin army with what I had, but hadn't painted.....A quick trip to the big pile of boxes yielded, in addition to my 2 squads of Harlequins, a Void Weaver, A Shadow Seer, and 2 bikes (painted)<br />
1 Box Dire Avengers<br />
1 Box Fire Dragons<br />
1 Box Shining Spears<br />
1 Death Jester<br />
1 Box Old Finecast Harlequins<br />
1 Shadow Seer<br />
1 Painted set of Striking Scorpions.....<br />
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Which feels like, with me wanting a new project, the start of a mixed Eldar/Harlequin Force.<br />
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I've started with the Dire Avengers. Troop Choice - Check. Small Model Count - Check. Not enough models in the box to make a unit of 5 plus an Exarch - Oh, very very yes (Damn you GW).<br />
So far, I've discovered how unforgiving Eldar Models can be, how bad the mold lines are on old GW model kits, and how sloppy I have got in my painting. Still, mostly for my memory, here are the steps to painting Dire Avengers<br />
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Blue Armour - Caledor Blue - Teclis Blue - Hoeth Blue<br />
Helmet - White. Lots of Coats of White<br />
Details - Black. Any Black<br />
Weapons and Other "hard" decoration - Bone washed Agrax Earthshade.<br />
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The final Avengers look like this.<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-82767587732872765962017-06-25T19:52:00.002+01:002017-06-25T19:52:37.226+01:00What's In Your Head...So, in order to break up the painting of all of the Neverborn for Malifaux that I have been doing recently, I decided to paint up the Walking Dead, All Out War set that I have had sitting on the shelf for a while.<br />
I played the game as part of my birthday celebrations with Dom of <a href="https://nothingbut1s.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Nothing But 1s.</a> He is mainly a Batman player, but we both seem to think that this game was pretty good.<br />
I started with the Walkers, as they were the easiest of the models, and I stole the Monochrome paint scheme that I saw in the Walking Dead group on facebook. Despite this, I think that they have come out reasonably well for a quick job.<br />
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Step 1 - Paint the white undercoated models with Khorne Red<br />
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Step 2 - Drybrush the model with Tyrant Skull Dry paint<br />
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Step 3 - Wash the model with Agrax Earthshade<br />
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Step 4 - Paint the base Black<br />
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They aren't the prettiest paint jobs, and they might get touched up or fiddled with at some point in the future, but for now, in groups, they look pretty effective.<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-3027881053839245692017-06-16T12:41:00.002+01:002017-06-16T17:19:12.754+01:00Crocodile RockSo, it has been a couple of months since my last post, but I can assure you that I have not been idle. I've got nearly all of the Neverborn faction finished now. Most particularly I have been working on finishing the "Type" models from the faction. So far, I have completed Woe, Nightmare, Nephilim, Mimic, Puppet, Illuminated and am working on the last few of the Swampfiends.<br />
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Particularly, I am currently painting the Gators. 3 Bayou Gators, and McTavish.<br />
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Painting Recipe (With some photos)<br />
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Step 1 - Undercoat white<br />
Step 2 - Paint all of the under scales Ogryn Camo<br />
Step 3 - Wash Underside Athonian Camoshade<br />
Step 4 - Paint upper scales Castellan Green<br />
Step 5 - Wash whole thing Agrax Earthshade<br />
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Step 6 - Drybrush Top scales Sylvaneth Bark<br />
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Step 7 - Drybrush underside Tyrant Skull<br />
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Step 8 - Inside of Mouth Pink Horror<br />
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Step 9 - Wash Mouch Carroburg Crimson<br />
Step 10 - Paint Gremlins......<br />
Step 11 - Teeth in an appropriate bone colour<br />
Step 12 - At this point, paint the rest of the details, and any other figures on the model (Such as McTavish)<br />
Step 13 - Base in your choice of style.<br />
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So, some the finished McTavish and Bayou Gators..<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-68837239274992919102017-04-02T23:31:00.002+01:002017-04-02T23:31:56.053+01:00Dream a little Dream of Me!So, I have now painted almost all of the Nightmares to replace my Dreamer crew, and begun the process of rebasing them. The only models that are left to assemble and paint are the Twins and Insidious Madness. The Madness I shall do as part of the Woes, and the Twins will be part of the next project, the Nephilim. So far, I have Puppets, and now Nightmares completed. The plan going forward is to move on next to Nephilim, and then Swampfiends, followed by Woes, and then Darkened (Who are mostly already painted)<br />
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So, pictures of the finished models.<br />
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All of these have been painted in a quick and dirty manner in order to get them back on the table, and then photographed using a phone camera. More to come once I have them varnished and rebased.DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-57862123586816303162017-03-05T23:08:00.002+00:002017-03-05T23:08:40.017+00:00Keeping the PeaceSo I have finished painting the last of my Constructs for my Hoffman crew. To that end, I present to you, the Peacekeeper.<br />
Simple paint job, with a very limited pallete, but I think it looks good.<br />
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Looking forward to trying him out with my new Guild CrewDrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-65196317627288101322017-03-01T14:34:00.001+00:002017-03-01T14:34:13.049+00:00Sign on for the GuildSo, i have done it, and I have started playing a new faction (As opposed to hoarding said faction for when I get round to it). I already had Sonnia, Lady J, and Perdita painted along with their crew boxes, but I was determined to diversify, since that plus the Governor's Proxy does not a good guild selection make.<br />
So, with some trepidation, I dug out the C.Hoffman box, along with the box of Wardens I got with him, and started building and painting.<br />
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The man himself. Simple paint job, but I think it looks OK. I messed up the attaching of his legs to the frame rather badly, but it hides fairly well from tabletop distances, and I'm not going to tear him apart to start again. I do have the old metal model that may get recruited as an alternative if it really bugs me.<br />
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His totem, the mechanical assistant. VERY simple paint scheme here of Silver/wash/drybrush/done. Looks ok on the table, and gets me a force painted very quickly (The main goal)<br />
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Guardian. Simple job again</div>
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Hunters. Harpoons were broken before they even got off the sprue. Reattached about 4 times now. I don't hold out hope of them lasting. Also, random tubes hanging underneath were left off on the grounds of WTF why?<br />
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Watcher. Without silly difficult to attach and unlikely to survive aerial.<br />
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And finally the Wardens. So thats all of the mechanical Guild folks I have, painted up and ready for me to start trying to learn to actually use them.<br />
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I'm back.DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-78926251886136074162017-02-19T15:43:00.001+00:002017-02-19T15:43:11.614+00:00Not the post I plannedSo, this post was supposed to be about my adventures at Neverbourne 2, the Malifaux Tournament at Beachhead in Bournemouth. Long story short, I had an amazing time, met some very nice blokes, and came out with a 1-2-0 record, winning nothing. I was going to talk about that.<br />
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Then I woke up this morning, and some fucking whoreson had broken into my car overnight, and stolen the bag that had all of my stuff from the tournament in it. All of the models for my dreamer crew, all of the cards for them, plus the cards for Collodi and his crew, that being the next crew that I was working on. 3 fate decks. All of my home made counters and scheme markers (By home made, I mean custom designed, printed out, and then fixed to mdf discs). That they have stolen my Tablet is almost incidental to that.<br />
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So, I have decided that I am going to do something else. I am going to write the scumbag a letter. I am posting it here, not because I have any thought that the scumbag who stole my stuff is one of my readers, but because I think that it says something about what our model collections mean to us.<br />
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Dear Thief,<br />
<br />
When you idly smashed the windows of my car (and I hope that hurts, by the way, and by hurts, I mean has somehow cut you so much you bleed to death or at least have permanent disfigurement), you probably had no idea what you were taking. In fact, you almost certainly still don't. You were probably just taking a punt that the contents of the bad that I carelessly dared to leave locked inside, outside my house, were going to make you a few pennies. Well, the tablet is old, and not worth very much. The models, worth less to you. Yet to me, they represented something. They were valuable. And you have sought to take that from me.<br />
Those models represented some of the first purchases I made when I had freed myself from a bad situation. I was able to buy them guilt free. They were amongst the first models I painted when I got back into Wargaming in a real manner. They represent a lot of years of collecting, and painting, and work and dedication. You don't know that. You just saw them as "there", and you took them.<br />
They represent a decision that I made earlier in the year, to put some much needed effort into playing Malifaux, rather than just hoarding the models. I've played for years, but these were the first crew where I sat down with the intention of actually getting to play them well. I concentrated on playing nothing but them. I concentrated on learning how to win with them. I devoted time and energy into these models, and, when it came to the Tournament yesterday, I didn't win, or even do well, but that was the culmination of the efforts that I had put in. I repainted stuff that needed it. I painted a few extra models. I tidied up paint jobs. I worked on them.<br />
There were also the cards for my Collodi crew in there. He was next, given that he shared a lot of the Dreamer's hiring pool. He was going to be the next master I learned, and for the last 2 weeks I have been painting models and planning for working on him next. I don't know what tournament it would have been yet, but he was going to be the master I took, along with the Dreamer. Now all of his cards, and a lot of his models are gone. Stolen because you don't understand the seperation of Yours and Not Yours.<br />
It may seem silly, but I was ready to just give the whole lot up. Sell all of the models, burn the books, get out of the game completely this morning. Hell, I'd have probably put all the other models and systems in the same boat. Get shot of the whole lot. I was that demoralised. Yet, there has been some light, and some help.<br />
Firstly, there are people. People empathising with the loss. People who I know and people I don't, who play this game and who understand the loss that this actually is. The people who have wished well, and the people who have offered more practical assistance. The people who have read this far into this post. Every single one of you is a fucking hero, and a reason why I am going to keep going.<br />
Then, there is my Wife. She is always wonderful, but today she has gone above and beyond. She wouldn't let me get rid of the models, she has insisted that I will be replacing them, and she has even offered to go walking round the streets in case they have been dumped locally. This woman, who doesn't play, and never has, has totally grasped the emotional enormity of this, while going through her own stuff. I love her, and I always will. Basically, everyone else has gotten stuffed, because I really do have the best wife ever.<br />
<br />
So, I have decided. For the moment, Neverborn as a faction are on hold. There is no point in even trying when so many of the core models that I would want to use are missing. So, in a bid to diversify my local meta a little, I shall now be scouring the big pile of Malifaux models for Ms Criid and friends. I may have to miss my #Playitpainted target for a few weeks, but I will get there, and Criid will replace Collodi as my next master.<br />
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So, in summary, you have stolen my models, and you have stolen, briefly, my plans for the game. But, you are not stealing my hobby from me. So, you lose. And I hope that Lord Chompy Bits somehow magically becomes real and you find out about 6" Teeth and 10" claws.<br />
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So, if you have gotten this far, anyone know how to use Sonnia?DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-84681879642434529522017-02-15T19:45:00.000+00:002017-02-15T19:45:33.262+00:00Not that BrutalSo, I have spent all of my Malifaux play time this year playing The Dreamer in order to try and get a handle on his playstyle. I've played (and lost) lots of games, but, on the Monday before the tournament, I aimed to take him to, I finally managed to hit a winning streak, and have now won 3 consecutive games with him. I have learned some lessons, including that I get on much better with Support Dreamer than I do summoning Dreamer, and that Teddy dying turn 1/2 is a big hit to my game.<br />
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My hope had been to try and get a second Master prepped and played before the tournament, and I had aimed for this to be Collodi. Time has run out for me, but I have at least managed to paint a chunk of the models that I will need when I do finally get around to starting to play him. Without further ado, I present, (all but the brutal, cause I haven't been able to get him yet) the Effigies.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arcane</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carrion</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVW1Nmw2Tf1H70lSC8Kk-6mLb8R8mK0APvkoQ6xDmT4MSlPzjuXYSUhbFdEDzSt2OS0rivrrK179p78T8iMkwdX8nr1_FYQbj6do8yDLWjqy-7v8Uj2OFgkk0nwLaOD7SBWRzvUbImECT/s1600/Hodgepodge.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVW1Nmw2Tf1H70lSC8Kk-6mLb8R8mK0APvkoQ6xDmT4MSlPzjuXYSUhbFdEDzSt2OS0rivrrK179p78T8iMkwdX8nr1_FYQbj6do8yDLWjqy-7v8Uj2OFgkk0nwLaOD7SBWRzvUbImECT/s320/Hodgepodge.png" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hodge Podge</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lucky</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mysterious</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shadow</td></tr>
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<br />I usually say comments and criticisms welcome. I do that when I post things on Facebook as well. However, I am now going to add one Caveat. The base rings are not up for discussion. I accept that some people have views on this and that some of them are very much better painters than me. I even take their advice and criticism on board. But my intention has always been to use this criticism to improve my painting style, rather than slavishly try (and fail) to copy someone else's. To that end, if you comment and I don't change things, please don't think that I am ignoring, putting down, or disregarding your ideas. I have just decided that for my models, this time, it's not for me. You will probably find it used in a later model anyway.<br /><br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-40821682909516412322017-02-06T08:49:00.000+00:002017-02-06T08:49:55.130+00:00A Year of Contradictions.This is an odd first post of the year, because I wrote it right back at the beginning of January, and never published it. Having done that, I come back to it, and let's see how I am doing against some targets I set myself a month ago.<br />
<br />
So, this is my first post of 2017, and it is a little bit different as it is going to be based on what I have done, and plan to do, and will not do. I am not going to have a set of gaming resolutions, but rather some targets, some of which I know I will fail. I will also hopefully try and talk about what has led to them.<br />
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1. Play More This is the obvious one, but it needs saying. I normally only get to game once a week. When that happens, I go to the FLGS, and I hopefully play Malifaux. But I also gossip, chill, demo Malifaux, and generally hang out. I think that if I were a bit more organised, my one evening a week could probably support at least 2 games, rather than the one I tend to get now.<br />
<i>Well, this one at least I have been getting better at. I have played more Malifaux, more consistently, since the beginning of the year than any time previously. I've been getting games to start earlier, I've started using Vassal to play games, and there has been a definite focus on getting number of games in. I have also signed up for my first (ever) Malifaux tournament as a player. The number of games is definitely increased and I am enjoying it.</i><br />
<br />
2. Focus Less. This also applies. I have, at last count, at least 10 gaming systems that I am familiar with and have a variety of forces for. In the last year, I have played 1, count them, 1 of those with any sort of regularity. Some of that is because I am a bit of a Malifaux nut, but I think that with work, I could get to play lots of other systems as well as Malifaux. Especially if I stick to point 1 above.<br />
<i> I've done less well a this. I have my first ever tournament coming up, and so i have been working on getting as much Malifaux played as possible so that I don't embarrass myself. This does have the downside of meaning that I am not even trying to play other systems at the moment. But I do have cases put together with all of the appropriate models for other games so that I can just grab a case to play Warmachine or X-Wing. And Vassal makes this much easier in theory as well. We shall see how this one goes.</i><br />
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3. Focus More. I have a variety of forces for lots of games. Particularly Malifaux. This has led to me playing lots of games with lots of forces, and not really having a grip on any of them. That needs to change. I need to play with a force until I am familiar with it and then change, rather than jumping about.<br />
<i> Nailed this one. I've played nothing but the dreamer since the start of the year. I've got a much better (read any) grasp of how he plays, which models work with him, and how to use him to smash opponents. All I need to do now is work out how to add completing schemes and strategies, and winning games to that list, and I will be sorted.</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu4tD8QMszNmLqobvQWYVVgn2021Jg9ubG8WHDEBQxsMR900qge-_JJOSg3uo7s_7iaJHrjxG6BJWOBAEf0UTrHEKyfDBJHr_KpODhk181tkKdUs2aEuilIocJgAbD9WJi80gqVn81-Y4B/s1600/Malifaux+Models.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu4tD8QMszNmLqobvQWYVVgn2021Jg9ubG8WHDEBQxsMR900qge-_JJOSg3uo7s_7iaJHrjxG6BJWOBAEf0UTrHEKyfDBJHr_KpODhk181tkKdUs2aEuilIocJgAbD9WJi80gqVn81-Y4B/s640/Malifaux+Models.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The results of Focusing on Painting Malifaux</td></tr>
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4. Paint Wiser. I don't play with unpainted models. I just don't. Good luck to you if you do, but I can't bring myself to do it. I also tend to paint whatever takes the mood. The combination is bad for my gaming. I intend to let my gaming inspire, at least a little, my painting so that I paint the things that will increase my chances of actually winning games occasionally.<br />
<i> This one is working out OK. Current painting projects have been focused on getting the Dreamer crew ready for the tournament. Models all neatened up, bases finished, and a new Teddy, and work on the Avatar Dreamer for use as an Emissary. Add to that the Effigies all in the paint crew, and the Bunraku so I can expand out to Collodi (he and Dreamer share a lot of models), and I think that I have definitely achieved the paint wiser.</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq_Fh282_SbZ1VKrXwfpZMaVSy5Za3_Em2tYE87jqKuQccwvgm_osAXpTicXAeEr7yiwTHt-cuKuAyuZClOwF21LOtqQyqbacB4Xozbp_-5SLd0P1e7rUx226J4y-0L9KSDSOnfrx-fQKn/s1600/Teddy.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq_Fh282_SbZ1VKrXwfpZMaVSy5Za3_Em2tYE87jqKuQccwvgm_osAXpTicXAeEr7yiwTHt-cuKuAyuZClOwF21LOtqQyqbacB4Xozbp_-5SLd0P1e7rUx226J4y-0L9KSDSOnfrx-fQKn/s320/Teddy.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Painted because a second Teddy is Scary</td></tr>
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5. Paint for Love. I need to make sure that I am painting models that I love. That move me, even if they aren't part of some grand gaming plan. I lost the love for painting, and for Malifaux a little when I painted nothing but models for the Malifaux Project. A complete break in style helped to fix that when I painted some Bolt Action stuff. I need to remember that.<br />
<i>Less good. Finished a chunk of the Konflikt '47 Stuff for the love of it. And I have a couple of models lined up to be painted just because, including a Halfling Mage from a local company I plan to review on the blog shortly.</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyYSlsR2LIvaWAwCEZWPFa-iP2bF8JJv8WL9aTogOb4cyrdRh6eA7zZEyva-59p2i1BrfX8MZ4miNH9s0lmBbh8bhxKPlQ5L7x5Kh492yuaNOGVfELF85LP4LX63Of6sh1CdJta9gIh1kW/s1600/BA+Army.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyYSlsR2LIvaWAwCEZWPFa-iP2bF8JJv8WL9aTogOb4cyrdRh6eA7zZEyva-59p2i1BrfX8MZ4miNH9s0lmBbh8bhxKPlQ5L7x5Kh492yuaNOGVfELF85LP4LX63Of6sh1CdJta9gIh1kW/s640/BA+Army.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A distraction, or a nearly complete starter force for a new game?</td></tr>
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6. Complete my Projects. I have lots of part finished projects. While I need to switch things up to keep things interesting, I need to actually try and finish some of the projects.<br />
<i> This seems to be getting better. I have started a To-Do list which should help me focus on this. So far, I have finished a terrain project I started last year, and the Dreamer painting is coming near to an end. So I am getting better so far, but the year is young.</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigSIchgZ9QgONTTGLGpcanX6jLsBnyeNRSC-X4pr7PTokWpmUCxg81X0AH1GrDz0Q04k7VeRH2Yep4SexJA3wsbjTtNhdKDxcVWlZYwCDwHkTYhoeGUdDkknuapUATPruh8zvxFDImuxA6/s1600/Table.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigSIchgZ9QgONTTGLGpcanX6jLsBnyeNRSC-X4pr7PTokWpmUCxg81X0AH1GrDz0Q04k7VeRH2Yep4SexJA3wsbjTtNhdKDxcVWlZYwCDwHkTYhoeGUdDkknuapUATPruh8zvxFDImuxA6/s320/Table.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally finished and put on a table</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnbQHEBWN4IGTnuogH7_93fyphLyvssBBSn-WhEqOOhETsKyzg1q1XtGX3WuCeJPF95HP_leTB2Q65fqLqICs4Q59HH6crjvnzbe2o_BEkfON_fMxxbC2ucivMgkkXnNU3Gm1EAzq4cV0h/s1600/Malifaux+Unpainted.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnbQHEBWN4IGTnuogH7_93fyphLyvssBBSn-WhEqOOhETsKyzg1q1XtGX3WuCeJPF95HP_leTB2Q65fqLqICs4Q59HH6crjvnzbe2o_BEkfON_fMxxbC2ucivMgkkXnNU3Gm1EAzq4cV0h/s320/Malifaux+Unpainted.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But I'm obviously not THAT good at finishing projects.</td></tr>
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So, let's see how successful I am in keeping to these. Please, people who know me, feel free to call me on the ones I am failing at and to suggest any more.<br />
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<i>Seems like so far I am making reasonable progress. Let's see how I keep it going.</i>DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-35635566500943837732016-12-21T22:07:00.001+00:002016-12-21T22:07:47.959+00:00Lead From the FrontSo, my experimenting with Bolt Action/Konflikt 47 models continues. I have been doing some research, and have decided to try and recreate an Armoured Infantry Battalion. For this, I am going to need 3 Infantry Squads, Leaders, 2 MMG's, a Mortar and transports for all the squads. I intend to swap out one of the Squads for a Heavy Infantry Squad, which may mean that I decide to drop either the Mortar or one of the MMG's.<br />
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In the meantime I am testing to see if I like painting American GI uniforms. Having test painted some Heavy Infantry, I have moved on to paint my Officer and Assistants.<br />
Initially, my wash made the khaki too dark on tunics, so they needed reworking. It also took e a little while to work out that the stretcher bearer was a stretcher bearer, and not, in fact, carrying a flag on a modern battlefield. I think it was the red cross that eventually gave it away!<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-46569882687167603842016-12-18T14:37:00.000+00:002016-12-18T14:37:16.502+00:00Send in the Heavy Infantry<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, the latest work in progress on my Heavy Infantry. Most of the colours are now down, and I am happy with how they are progressing.</div>
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The basic armour is Castellan Green, washed with Agrax Earthshade, and then highlighted by drybrushing up with increasing amounts of Karak Stone mixed in, then finally with Nurgling green.</div>
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The skin is, as ever, Bugman's Glow, washed with Reikland Fleshshade and then layered up with Cadian Fleshtone.</div>
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Metal is done with a mix of Leadbelcher and Abaddon Black before drybrushing up.</div>
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I still have bases to paint, as well as the NCO's cigar. Then its a case of adding the markings for rank and units. I still need to do some research into how these should be done.</div>
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All in all, I have really enjoyed painting these. They are a great difference from the Malifaux and Epic stuff I have painted recently, and I think that they may lead to a small (or not so small), force for Konflikt '47/Bolt Action</div>
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-53683734047483754962016-12-13T22:40:00.001+00:002016-12-13T22:42:24.452+00:00Konflikt '47 US Heavy Infantry ReviewSo, this is the first time that I have written a review of a gaming product in this fashion. I will state upfront that I have no interests to declare. I bought these models, at the price I quote, from one of my FLGS. I have no reward for doing this, and there is nothing for me to gain.<br />
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I have looked longingly at the Konflikt 47 models for a few weeks now, since I saw them at Warfare. I've never seen them before, and so when I got home I did some research. Seems that it is based off the Bolt Action ruleset, and shares some models with it. The UK and US and Russian starters all appealed to me, but the price, while reasonable, is higher than I wanted to spend at the moment.<br />
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So I have decided that, since it will be models that drive me, I would go and buy a small set of the heavy infantry to see if I liked the models. Good models are likely to make me more likely to love a system, this is why I am so addicted to Malifaux.<br />
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I bought the US Heavy Infantry for £13.50. I had no idea what to expect, having never bought Warlord models before. Its been a while since I worked with metal models, and so with some trepidation I set about opening the pack.<br />
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I have to say that the quality of the casting is amazing. Barely any model lines on the parts above at all. The arms, where they joined the sprue needed a small amount of filing down, but they were a dream compared to other models that I have assembled.</div>
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The heads are beautiful. Characterful, and full of life, and the NCO even has a cigar. These were slightly harder to remove from the sprue, and needed some filing to get them to fit into the neck sockets on the bodies, but they are so nice, they are worth the effort.<br />
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Assembled , the models look the part. I don't have any other 1/56 infantry for this time period to compare to, but, I have to say that if this is the quality of the Warlord models, then I shall certainly be investing.<br />
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Final Score 9/10DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-3725433509985416682016-12-12T22:58:00.002+00:002016-12-12T22:58:54.222+00:00Entire Company of Imperial Fists. Epic or What?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
So, I never thought that I would say this, but I am getting bored with painting Malifaux models. A block seems to have set in, and I can't bring myself to start working on the last 4 Ten Thunders models to complete the first wave. I have flipped around between painting my Trolls, my Cygnar, even some Infinity, but then I realised that what I really needed was a new project that was significantly different from my current ones, and that I could finish and complete. And so, I dug out my Epic Marines. These have been sat in my to do pile for several years, and I realised that they met my requirements. And so I took them from this.</div>
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To this.<br />
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I finished 2 Landraiders, 4 Rhinos, a Whirlwind, 3 Hunters, and added 5 Landspeeders.<br />
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I'm going to call this a success, a project that was easy to complete, and has hopefully helped to break some of the painting block.DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-56828535519033370042016-11-30T20:41:00.000+00:002016-11-30T20:41:19.180+00:00You're my Serpent, of the morning, SerpentOr at least, you are my Dawn Serpent. This is one of those models that has been sat in my pile of unopened boxes for months. As part of my Malifaux completion project, it came up as the next model for my Ten Thunders, and I decided to work a little more on the scales than I have been for these tabletop models. I then found that the combination of the shape of the model, my camera, and my painting made getting good photos difficult. Nevertheless, I have tried. So, some step by steps of my Dawn Serpent.<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-47186682755680282812016-11-18T23:33:00.001+00:002016-11-18T23:33:19.010+00:00Is it Thor where I hit it?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-4DoxhXH7aajYYAHVdl9GAnvAXPYFhk78ddig82pSGTwq3PMRNegsuU87fM5VwtnvXa1q4ztZnw4EmqI4YlFJOUVso2lXtcX3HNUaPv6Hz5BsbdqMkUX2SKc6w5lVVFV72yrLOs9Nr6Y/s1600/Thumbnail.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-4DoxhXH7aajYYAHVdl9GAnvAXPYFhk78ddig82pSGTwq3PMRNegsuU87fM5VwtnvXa1q4ztZnw4EmqI4YlFJOUVso2lXtcX3HNUaPv6Hz5BsbdqMkUX2SKc6w5lVVFV72yrLOs9Nr6Y/s1600/Thumbnail.png" /></a>Ok, so I have made a few decisions. Chief amongst them was to ensure that all of my dual faction bases were done so that the left side was the faction that they appear in in the book, the right was the other faction. This has meant that some of my models that were previously finished need rebasing. I have also finished painting some more models.<br />
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First up, Misaki. I played her in a game the day I finished her. I was using her to demo against Mei-Feing. I completely failed to realise just how killy she was until she crossed the entire board turn 1 to kill Kang. Died shortly afterwards, but turns out she really is as mobile as people say.<br />
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I also finished painting Ototo, who has been sat on the shelf for a long time. I experimented on using thinned Waystone Green over Black for the hair. The effect is....interesting I think, and I want to see it matt varnished before i make up my mind.<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-68709414583618234792016-11-09T18:27:00.002+00:002016-11-09T18:27:59.010+00:00Dead Kennedy's (Necro Punks?)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, I have finished the painting stage of the first two Necropunks. With these, I can say that I have completed all of the Wave 1 resurrectionist models, and therefore have achieved 2 (of 28) steps towards having every model in Malifaux available to field. These were another quick and dirty job, making use of Typhus Corrosion and Blood for the Blood God to give quick and easy effects. There is, as I am sure people are aware, a third Necropunk model. Its currently sat on the side, awaiting for the third time I reattach the arms springing from its back. Therefore, it is not yet painted, and may be delayed.</div>
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-58000926158888353012016-11-06T00:06:00.000+00:002016-11-06T00:06:27.545+00:00Odds and endsSo, several bits to cover in this, rather scattered post.<br />
Firstly, the wave 1 Outcasts. All of them, finished, as I have mentioned, and posted elsewhere.<br />
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A mix of models, mostly the newer plastics, but some of them (notably Hans, Johan, and Bishop) are the older metal models.<br />
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I've actually played two full games of Malifaux recently. Not as a ringer at a tournament that I am running. Not as a demo or teaching game for a beginner, but an honest to goodness full on game. The first was against Johnathon. My Viktoria's vs his Collete. Good fun game, really close, and I ended up losing a close game against an opponent who is a really good sport, and hwo I have not had the opportunity to play enough recently. Next up, I played a game of Malifaux on Saturday against Andrew. Outcasts vs Outcasts, with my Viktoria's taking on Jack Daw. A good fun, close game, finishing 6-5, after 6 turns, and with it very clear that with a further turn I would have lost. Doesn't matter. All I really cared about at the time was getting a fun time in, given that I have had some bad stuff going on in the non gaming world. Turns out, as expected, Andrew gave me exactly that. Thanks very much to both of them.<br />
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Finally, I finished up a few bits of models. Touch ups, and bases, and now I can say that I am three models closer to finishing my Ressurectionists. Just the necropunks and Crooked Men to go, and they are undercoated awaiting the brush tomorrow.<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-49926604929301613862016-10-30T20:59:00.000+00:002016-10-30T20:59:00.618+00:00Smooth Criminals.....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Just a quick update. With the completion of these, I have now painted all of the Wave I outcasts. there are a few bases that need to be coloured in accordance with their faction, and the bases on these need a little wash, but apart from that, I have now finished all of the Wave I models for the first faction. That means that I have the Outcasts completed in Wave I, the Neverborn just need the Waldgeists and Barbaros, and the Resurrectionists require the Necropunks and the Crooked Men.<br />
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These were quick and dirty paint jobs since they probably won't be spending too much time on the tabletop. I may try and add stripes to the uniforms at some point, but otherwise, they are done.<br />
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Resurrectionists next to finish (since I have the models, and I need to buy the Waldgeists, and the Barbaros is only in a kit which I have in metal and don't really want to replace yet)DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1236707967196343044.post-73942800102341015252016-10-19T23:10:00.000+01:002016-10-19T23:12:27.252+01:00TotemicSo, some more work on the Outcasts from Wave I.<br />
Firstly, Von Schill's Totem, the Steam Trunk.<br />
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And finished with the Malifaux Child.<br />
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<br />DrDavehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08451280965586217125noreply@blogger.com1